First I'd like to say thanks for a great forum, I'm new and have looked at several forums and this one is excellent. One oddity I have run across is that some bearing nuts are octagonal instead of hex. It has the 6 notch pattern around the outside but the notches are curved toward the center of the nut. I guess that goes a long way toward explaining why K-M's prices are so far up in the stratosphere. Thanks Jeff These lock-nuts are very similar from manufacturer to manufacturer ford,dodge,gm.
If you want to know more or withdraw your consent to all or some of the cookies, please refer to the. Some rearends like Dana had rounded corners on the nuts so a typical socket if it matched the flats wouldn't fit in the hub. I've made all of them, plus several others, and they're high school machine shop level parts. I hesitate to believe that this is the only option available, and I must be looking in the wrong places. Includes six drivers and handle extension for driving bearing races and seals on hubs with deep brake drums without removing the drums.
I even found one in backwards but I don't remember the specifics. Kent-Moore J-25025-B Dial Indicator Stand Set. Army Reparability Z This is a nonreparable item. Non-stock item, manufacturer drop ship; please email service toolsource. The bearing lock nut it too far down in the hub to get loose with a punch.
Leave that bearing in place to have the drums turned, remove and clean it afterward. Best to pop axle shaft off and take a look at what that axle has in it. Best used on steel parts. Procurement will be initiated only after receipt of a requisition. Turn discs over to drive seals.
Marine Corps Service Organization M U. Adjust them like a front wheel bearing, don't make them tight. Use with 3M Roloc Disc Pad 05539. Set is housed in a blow-molded plastic storage case. Set includes the following parts: No.
I have walked many a retaining nut off using a large chisel with the end ground blunt. Manufacturer drop ship; please email service toolsource. I tried searching the forum and couldn't find an answer to my troubles, which probably means its not really any trouble, but I'm still going to ask. On our cranes and trucks we switched everything that had grease lube over to oil lube via the use of National or Stemco seals made for the purpose and had zero bearing failures in over 20 years. Captive customers tend to make that happen you know. Rockwell's service literature says to fill the differential to the plug, jack up one side then the other to allow oil to run downhill to both hubs, then recheck and refill the differential housing as necessary.
Just remove the bolts from the axle flange and bump it on the side to break the gasket seal. Features: Tools are comfortable and lightweight. Otherwise pretty straight forward rebuild. Obviously if the bearings are grease lubed then the above doesn't apply. You establish the bearing adjustment with the inner nut then slide the washer on and honk down on the outer nut to keep everything tight and in place. Yours is the first straight answer I've heard. If condemned or economically unserviceable, then dispose at the level authorized replace the item.
Cyclotronguy Its my understanding that car dealers are required to buy the full complement of special tools with each new model year. I do recall you want a tub positioned at the end of the axle to deal with the axle lube which comes out! If one ever spins on the housing end, it can be a real project to get it disassembled. The bearing adjustment and locking is typically a two nut deal with a keyed washer between the nuts. Breakage due to use of power tools voids your warranty. This is a non-quoted item and the price fluctuates; we have to get pricing each time an order is placed.
Regardless of whether the bearings are oil or grease lubed, you've got oil right behind the axle flange. Practical Machinist is the easiest way to learn new techniques, get answers quickly and discuss common challenges with your peers. When unserviceable, condemn and dispose at the level indicated by the first digit of the maintenance code. I removed the hub bolts and pulled the axles. If the washer won't engage the nut at that point then they'll usually tell you to back it off further to the point where the two engage, rather than going tighter to get them aligned.